16 May 2012

Advice for first-time long term travellers

Pieces of advice proven useful during my first time backpacking.

Take several very large ziplock bags. Use them to pack your clothes in: eg, one for undies and socks, one for tshirts, etc. Seal each about 90% of the way then sit on them to squish out the excess air before closing them completely. It’s a cheap way to save lots of room in your pack and it means when you need to grab something it will slip out easily rather than dragging half your clothes out all over the place along with it.

Get one of those cables with a lock in case you need to secure your pack to something (a bunk bed, a train luggage rack, etc).

Even if you don’t use the cable the extra padlock will come in handy for lockers at hostels that don’t supply free locks.

Take a fine permanent marker with you so you can mark your name and check out date on food you want to keep in communal hostel fridges (usually a requirement).

Bring a one-size-fits-all sink plug. Sometimes it’s nice to have a bath (often showers are in baths anyway) or you might need it to shave or do light handwashing. There won’t always be a plug in the sink.

While a lot of hostels have laundry facilities and you can find laundromats almost everywhere, having that plug, a portable clothes line and a small bottle of handwashing laundry liquid do occasionally prove useful. (Note however that some hostels specifically don’t allow handwashing in sinks or drying wet clothes in rooms.)

If you have the energy for it, shower before you get dressed for bed. It keeps your pjs cleaner and it’s always nicer to sleep in something clean.

If your towel hasn’t dried completely by the time you need to move on keep it in a ziplock bag until you get to your new location and take it out to air as soon as you arrive.

The only time ear plugs have come in handy for me was on an overnight train when the wheels made terribly loud screeching noises in the middle of the night. I’ve never had any problem with noisy dorms or streets, but I’m a fairly heavy sleeper.

I used to pack a rain poncho but was always too embarrassed to use it. Just buy a cheap fold up umbrella if the weather start to turn rainy – and keep it in easy reach.

If you have a fringe take a small pair of sharp hair scissors and trim it yourself. As long as you don’t have a really precise style  you should be able to get the hang of doing it yourself relatively easily. Enough to get by at any rate. You’re backpacking, not entering a fashion show!

Make sure you bring essentials such as prescription medication, but you can buy and replace just about everything else you need (toothpaste, soap, clothes, etc) along the way. It’s half the fun of travelling and they’ll be the most useful souvenirs you’ll pick up! (I still use a cheapie beach towel I got from a stand by the beach in Barcelona 2 years later.)

In the same vein, don’t take one dressy outfit “just in case”. If you end up needing one you can buy it.

Having said all that, sometimes it’s nice to take a little piece of home with you. It’s a cliché, but next time I go backpacking I’m taking a small jar of Vegemite.

Take as few books as possible. Cut down on guidebooks by making good use of free or paid smartphone apps, saving websites for offline use with apps like Read It Later, take scans or PDF guidebooks you can also access on your phone, tear out or photocopy the only pages you’ll need, swap guidebooks along the way with travellers going in the other direction so you only need to carry one at a time…

In general, and anyone that’s ever been backpacking will tell you this: just pack as light as you possibly can! Buy the smallest pack you can get away with and aim to start off with it no more than half full.

Cache iPhone maps to avoid the need for cellular data and therefore avoid huge phone bills:

  • Go to Settings > General > Network, then make sure “Data Roaming” is set to OFF
  • Open the Maps app while you’re connected to your accommodation’s wifi
  • Find the city you’re currently based in. Move the map around, zoom in and out a few levels.
  • This info will now be temporarily stored on your iPhone for the next couple of days (or until you search another area in detail, thus overwriting the cache)
  • Now when you open Maps you’ll be able to view the bits you’ve cached without any kind of internet connection – and the GPS locator will still work (it doesn’t need cellular data)
  • You can also create bookmarks for particular locations on a wifi connection and access them offline along with your cached maps

Sometimes, your accommodation’s wifi just won’t work on your iPhone/Mac laptop/PC laptop no matter how much troubleshooting you do. Try not to rely on having it at your next destination until you’re sure.

If you’ve become heavily reliant on Google Maps but you end up needing to use a paper map, it’s not as bad as you might think! They can you mark you out as a bit of a tourist though: I like to refold mine so only the immediately relevant area is visible at about A5 size. (Messy folds and holes will start to form but it’s quicker to refer to.)

You can often get free paper maps from your accommodation (marked up with recommendations if you’re lucky!).

Take cycling or walking tours on arrival in a new city to get your bearings and see the highlights so you can decide what to go back and see in more detail later on. You’ll often pick up lots of great food tips too. The best kind of walking tours are the “free” ones (for example) – the guides work harder to make sure they’re interesting and you have a good time because they’re working for tips.

You’ll meet a lot of people you’ll want to stay in touch with. If you don’t want to go the whole hog and print up basic little business cards with your contact details on that you can hand out, always have some scrap paper and a pen handy.

Use whatever you can of the local language, even when they use English with you. I think it’s nice.

At the very least, try to learn how to say “thank you” – even if you have to ask the locals how to pronounce it!

Don’t assume a rail pass will be value for money, it depends on your travelling style. Even if you have a pass you often have to pay for surcharges or seat reservations on top.

If you need to buy train tickets and there’s a difficult language barrier, write down what you need with the help of a phrase book.

Take snacks on long train/bus journeys so you don’t have to rely on potentially expensive (or non-existent) restaurant cars.

Take local water transport instead of cruises, eg: Thames Clipper in London, waterbuses in Venice, local ferries in Istanbul. You’ll get the same views for a much cheaper price and I’ve personally never found touristy river cruises that informative (you usually can’t hear the bored guide over the loud speaker system).

Turn around after you’ve walked past a major monument – sometimes that will be the better angle for a snapshot.

Likewise, look up from time to time. You might see something interesting you would otherwise have missed by keeping your eyes at street level.

Coins are very useful! For public transport, laundry, vending machines, tipping, etc. Try to have small notes and big coins.

A money belt is not a bum bag. If you feel the need to use one, only put things that you don’t need to regularly access in it or you’ll just be advertising yourself to thieves. If you do need to access it in public, go into a restroom and do it privately.

Buy some Skype credit so you can make cheap calls to friends and family back home (if they don’t already use Skype enabling you to call them for free) and if you need to make any enquiries or bookings by the phone.

More packing and language tips.

My favourite travel links:

Wikitravel
The Man in Seat Sixty-One
Matador Network
Round the World Travel FAQ

26 Apr 2012

A long weekend in Istanbul

You can cover all of Istanbul’s magnificent main sights in a healthy long weekend, especially since many of them are in walking distance of each other in the old city, Sultanahmet.

Things to see and do

“Free” walking tour (tips based). Lasts around 2 hours, there’s both a morning tour and and afternoon tour, no booking required, just turn up. A great introduction to the Sultanahmet area and its history.

Basilica Cistern. Entry 10TL. Magical. Make sure you go first thing (9am) to avoid a long queue and the crowds inside which would spoil the atmosphere. Skip the audio guide because the same info is available on signs. Recommended length of visit: 1 hour.

Blue Mosque. Entrance is free but donations are welcome upon exit. Open to the public even on Friday (the Muslim holy day) but closed to non-worshippers for at least half an hour after each call to prayer and longer at the midday call.  Recommended length of visit: 30min – 1 hour. You never get tired of just walking past and admiring it:

The Blue Mosque

Aya Sophia (Hagia Sophia). Entry 20TL. Not open on Mondays. Quite fascinating: it started life as an Orthodox basilica, became a mosque and now functions as a museum. Be prepared to queue even if you go first thing.  Recommended length of visit: 2 hours.

Grand Bazaar. I expected this to be like the souks of Morocco but it was surprisingly modern even though the building itself is hundreds of years old. Almost no touting, too, which is nice. Worth a bit of a wander but after a while all the shops start to look the same.

Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar. Smaller and cheaper than the Grand Bazaar, and I preferred it. Predominantly made up of spice, tea and sweet stalls it’s also surrounded by cheap places to grab lunch.

Spices, Egyptian Bazaar

Galata Bridge and Galata Tower. Exiting the Spice Bazaar you’ll find yourself in Eminönü, one of Istanbul’s many ferry ports. Walk across Galata Bridge and you’ll find men of all ages fishing all day long and can take a peek at what they’ve caught. After you’ve crossed the water follow the signs up a steep backstreet to Galata Kulesi (tower) which you can go up (12 TL) for a fantastic view of Istanbul, the Golden Horn and the Asian side.

You could also…

Go to Taksim… but during the day I found it choked with people (imagine Oxford Street at Christmas then double the amount of people) and at night you have to dodge all the people trying you invite you to bars to sell you impossibly expensive drinks. (Mainly a problem for single guys – one of the guys in our hostel dorm had 6 different people try this scam on him in one evening.) The backstreets are more interesting than the main boulevard, so if you do go, go wandering into those.

Visit Topkapi Palace… but we didn’t, mainly because some friends said it wasn’t a must-see unless you had extra time to kill, and the line when we visited the gardens (which you can do for free) was hilariously long. We went to Beylerbeyi Palace on the Asian side instead. (Entry 20TL, includes free guided tour.) We got there by taking a ferry to Eminönü to Üsküdar and then a bus (but you could walk it from Üsküdar in about 30min).

Turkish experiences

Take a ferry instead of a Bosphorus tour. You can take a ferry to the Asian side from Eminönü for a measly 2TL and actually get off an explore the area (which is wonderfully tourist-free and not nearly as crowded as the old city), or you can pay anything from 12TL to €35 for a trip up and down the Bosphorus where you can’t stop and get off to visit any of the sights. Having said that, everyone I know that has done a Bosphorus tour did enjoy it, so really it’s up to you.

Go to a hammam. I spent a lot of time analysing reviews of Istanbul hammam on TripAdvisor and came to two conclusions:

1) The touristy ones are more expensive but perhaps preferable if you’re concerned about language barriers.
2) It seems a lot of negative reviews are from people that expected a bathhouse to be the same thing as a luxurious spa treatment and were sorely disappointed.

In the end I chose Süleymaniye because it had better reviews, a very helpful website, and was cheaper than the two big ones. I also liked that it allows couples to visit together because while I know that’s not traditional, it meant Alex and I could share the same experience. After what I’d read I was expecting quite an intense ordeal, but it’s not that dissimilar to the same kind of experience you’d have at a Japanese bathhouse (just with more sauna time). And maybe they went easy on me, but the scrub was no where near as painful as a pedicure I once had. Conclusion: very relaxing and you certainly feel clean afterwards!

Visit a tea house. Turkish coffee is famous worldwide but the local drink of choice is tea: normal black tea. (Apple tea is definitely worth trying though – it’s served very sweet and tastes like hot apple juice!) This place is right in the middle of the tourist district but the tea’s half the price anywhere else in the area (1TL vs 2TL) and it’s in the middle of an atmospheric cemetery. You can also share an apple, or perhaps rose and mint flavoured shisha for 12TL. It’s very authentic but (/so?) don’t expect fancy service – be quick with your order or the staff will move on! (But don’t worry, he’ll likely come back later.)

Turkish tea

Places to eat

Balkan Lokantasi. Self service, point-at-what-you’d-like, home cooked, super cheap, delicious. We had two meat dishes, one vegetable dish, bread, two drinks and two desserts for 20TL.

Sultanahmet Koftecisi. A short menu (kofte or grilled lamb) but done to perfection.

Sultanahmet Fish Restaurant. A bit of a splurge on a backpacker’s budget but very friendly staff (no touts – a good sign) and tasty seafood. When we visited they took one of our desserts off the bill and gave it to us on the house just because!

Pasazade. I haven’t actually been there (we just ran out of time) but a friend of mine enjoyed it so much she ate there twice on her visit to Istanbul.

Palatium Cafe. Another recommendation we didn’t get a chance to put to the test, but it sounds like a cool place to go: there are glass floors that allow you to see ancient ruins underneath and I think you might even be able to go downstairs to see them!

Durumzade. Too many good places to eat in Istanbul, not enough meals to try them all out. This place is reputed to serve  up perhaps the best kebabs in all Istanbul, although again, we didn’t get a chance to try them.

Lastly, find these boats in Eminönü next to Galata Bridge:

Fish in bread boat

They each serve up freshly grilled fish in bread with lettuce and onion for 5TL a pop. A wee bit bony, but delicious.

Practicalities

You will need to pay for a visa on entry. The price varies on your citizenship but is €15 for most countries. It’s best to have this ready in cash and note that for some odd reason Turkish Lira are not accepted.

We stayed at Agora Guesthouse and Hostel in Sultanahmet which is in walking distance of almost everything listed above (or a short tram ride if you’re tired of walking). Free wifi on every floor, nice big lockers in the rooms, good showers, excellent breakfast buffet, rooftop terrace and common area, helpful and friendly staff.

The metro, tram and furnicular system is limited but easy to use. Buy a jeton (token) for for each leg of your trip from one of the vending machines at the station. For example, to get from Atatürk Airport to Sultanahmet you will need 2 tokens: one for the metro and a second one when you change to the tram. Each token costs 2TL and vending machines accept coins, 5TL notes and 10TL notes.  You can buy a bunch in advance so you’ve got them handy.

The other main method of payment is the Istanbulkart – you’ll need one of these to use the buses which don’t accept cash or jetons. (Unless a kindly passenger offers to swipe their card for you in exchange for cash!)

There is no direct public transport to Sabiha Gökçen, the airport on the Asian side, but you can get there quite cheaply by taking a Havataş bus from Taksim Square. (Allow approx 45 minutes to get to Taksim from Sultanahmet and 1.5 hours for the bus to the airport.) The Havataş bus costs 12TL – just hop on and buy your ticket on board.

[more photos]

3 Mar 2012

6 ways to boost your language skills for travel

You don’t need to be fluent in a foreign language to get by while travelling. A few words in the local language can go a long way and often greatly enhance your experience. It doesn’t even have to be the local language: in Bruges we stayed in a B&B run by a lovely lady who spent much of her life in Italy. Since her Italian was better than her English, and our Italian was better than our Dutch, that’s what we used!

Here are some tips and resources to help you improve your language skills for travel.

1. Know the alphabet

Languages that don’t use the Roman alphabet can be particularly intimidating for people whose first language is English. The good news is that these languages often use a lot of English words which are revealed if you understand the alphabet. Two particularly good examples of this are Japanese katakana (used specifically for non-Japanese words) and Russian Cyrillic.

2. Use phrase books

As far as phrase books go, I’m personally a big fan of Lonely Planet. The multi-language ones are handy on long trips where you don’t want to carry a lot of books, and I find the dedicated single language ones feature an impressive vocabulary compared to the other options available. I also think the pronunciation guides are pretty good. Even if you just can’t get your tongue around pronunciation phrase books have other uses. You can use them to write up complicated requests (eg complicated train ticket requests) or even just to point at phrases (eg when you’re lost and too flustered to attempt speech).

On this POINT (hoho), you can also get phrase books which contain pictures instead of words, where you can point at a universally recognisable image of what you’re trying to find or ask about.

In this age of smart phones you can also download both paid and free phrase book apps which are useful because you can listen to the correct pronunciation, although I find even the paid Lonely Planet phrase book apps don’t have as good a vocab as the printed books. And you don’t always have to pay for a printed guide!

3. Write your own phrase book

I credit this brilliant idea to Tim Patterson at Matador. Buy a little notebook and use it to record the words and phrases you find most useful on your travels, whether you copy them from a dictionary/phrasebook or write down your own phonetic representations of something someone has taught you.

The words I consistently find to be most useful are (not necessarily in order of importance):

Hello
Goodbye
Yes
No
Please
Thank you
Sorry
It’s/that’s okay
Do you speak English?
I do/don’t speak …
Only a bit/little
I don’t understand
Excuse me (for attention)
I’d like …
That/this one
(It’s) delicious!
The bill
Do you have …?
How much is it?
That’s too much
Can you write down the price?
Good
Bad
Where?
The number of people in your group (eg “2” – so you can order the right number of tickets, drinks, etc!)

4. Learn by listening

There are oodles of different audio programs to help you learn or develop your language skills. Two that I’ve found helpful have been Penton Overseas’ Learn In Your Car and McGraw-Hill’s Language on the Move. I particularly like Learn In Your Car because it cuts to the chase and helps you build up your vocabulary.

If you want to save money the Radio Lingua Network offers a fantastic free series of “One Minute” language podcasts designed to teach you the essentials of a language in 10x 1 minute lessons. You can download them from their website or via the iTunes store. They also offer several “Coffee Break” and “My Daily Phrase” series which will teach you more, also for free.

5. Get addicted

What if you want more than a few key words and phrases? Here are two options which, as cheesy as it sounds, can be so fun you end up learning without even realising it!

Rosetta Stone: A very natural way of learning by pictures with no English translations. They offer a very impressive range of languages but it’s a bit of an expensive option – worthwhile investing if you’re dedicated to the cause. You can test the software on their website to see if you like it.

Babbel: A website-based system which focuses on repetition. If you choose the written (rather than spoken option which requires a microphone) you become very conscious of the words by having to remember how to spell them. Cheaper than Rosetta stone but fewer language options. This link gives you a free week to try it out. You can download iPhone apps which offer free vocab as well as access to the paid lessons.

6. The part you don’t want to hear

It doesn’t matter how hard you study, if you can’t bring yourself to speak out loud you’ll be missing out on the most beneficial, practical lessons of all.

It does take courage: what if I say the wrong thing? What if I sound stupid? What if I get laughed at? The first time I went to Italy I wanted to make use of all those school years I spent learning Italian but I was so petrified of making a mistake (because I felt should have known enough not to make mistakes) that I barely said a word. On that trip we went to Florence, Pisa and Venice where everyone we met spoke English anyway, but I didn’t want to use English because I was supposed to know how to speak Italian!

The thing is, you just have to have a go. You might be corrected, you might get things wrong, but most of the time your effort will really be appreciated. (Except perhaps in Denmark?) This is particularly important if you do want to become fluent, because no matter how much you learn on your own you will have to put it into practice at some point. Of course there are uses for languages where you don’t need to speak them (eg watching a foreign language film, reading a book in another language) but most languages are meant to be spoken.

When I went back to Italy a couple of years later I forced myself to use as much Italian as I could. Even when the reply came in English it showed I’d been understood and I forged ahead, rewarded with a feeling of triumphant success.

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1 Feb 2012

Anzac biscuits

I made Anzac biscuits on the weekend. :)

Anzac biscuits

Ingredients

  • 1 cup plain flour
  • 1 cup rolled oats (whole ones! these don’t seem to be as common in the UK as they are in Aus)
  • 1 cup desiccated coconut
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • salt
  • 1/4 cup golden syrup
  • 125g unsalted butter, cubed
  • 1 teaspoon bicarb soda
  • 2 tablespoons boiling water

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C and line two baking trays with baking paper. (Work in batches if you only have one.)
  2. Combine the flour, oats, coconut, sugar and a pinch of salt in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre.
  3. Place the golden syrup and butter in a small saucepan and stir over low heat until the butter has melted. In a cup, dissolve the bicarb soda in the boiling water and add to the butter mixture. The mixture will foam a little.
  4. Pour the butter mixture into the well in the centre of the dry ingredients and stir until combined. The mixture should hold together but be slightly on the crumbly side – add a little extra flour if it’s too wet or a little extra water if it’s too dry to hold together.
  5. Roll tablespoonfuls of the mixture into balls and place on the prepared trays. Leave at least 3cm between each to allow for spreading.
  6. Bake for 12-15 min or until golden. Allow to cool on the trays for a few minutes before transferring to wire racks to cool completely. Story in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 30 biscuits.

Recipe from “The Perfect Cookbook” by David Herbert.

29 Jan 2012

4 lovely things to do in York

1. Wander around the pedestrianised city centre

Admire the famous medieval buildings overhanging the Shambles,  browse Newgate Market’s 110 stalls (open every day except 24-25 Dec and 1 Jan), rest your feet in a tearoom or cosy pub, and buy sweets or tasty deli treats from any number of cute shops.

Medieval buildings

2. Window shop on Fossgate

There’s a cluster of second hand bookshops and vintage fashion shops on Fossgate. One of the bookshops has a large collection of Folio Society hardbacks upstairs which is pretty darn cool. There’s also a great foodie shop and cafe called The Hairy Fig which is a very nice spot for lunch.

Tea at The Hairy Fig

3. Walk along the city wall

It’s free! There are various points along the wall where you can climb up to start walking along and it’s open every day from 8am until dusk (unless there’s a bad risk of ice or slipperiness due to bad weather).

York city wall

4. Admire York Minster

Especially spectacular if you’re lucky enough to see it against a beautiful blue sky.

York Minster

We only had two days in York and spent most of our time catching up with friends visiting from Australia. Some other things we could have done:

[more photos]

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